From Campo de' Fiori to Testaccio, by way of Porta Portese: Rome's markets are an authentic slice of city life, with fresh produce, street food and antiques.
The markets of Rome: history and flavours in every stall
Rome is a city of markets, each with its own soul and history. Away from the best-known tourist attractions, it is the markets that tell the real life of Rome.
Campo de' Fiori: Rome's living room
Campo de' Fiori (literally "field of flowers") is one of the most iconic spots in Rome's historic centre. From Monday to Saturday morning the square turns into a colourful market of fruit, vegetables, flowers, spices and local produce. In the evening it becomes one of the main gathering points of Roman nightlife.
At its centre stands the statue of Giordano Bruno, burned at the stake in this square in 1600 for heresy - a reminder of freedom of thought that still lingers in the air.
What to buy: Piennolo tomatoes from Vesuvius, Roman artichokes (in season), spices mixed on the spot and the aromatic herbs of the Lazio farmers.
Porta Portese: the kingdom of vintage
On Sunday morning, from 6am to 2pm, the bank of the Tiber fills with the famous Porta Portese market: over 4,000 stalls selling everything from 1970s vinyl to vintage clothes, from furniture to period toys.
It is the largest flea market in Europe, a fascinating labyrinth where you need patience and a good eye to find the best pieces. Haggling is a must.
Tip: Arrive before 8am for the best pieces. Bring cash and do not leave bags unattended.
Testaccio Market: authentic food
The covered Testaccio market is considered the most authentic in Rome. Built in 2012 to replace the old open-air market, it hosts dozens of stalls of fresh produce, cheeses, cured meats and street food.
At stall 15 you will find coda alla vaccinara and lampredotto. The Mordi e Vai stall serves the best boiled-beef sandwich in the city. Do not miss the gelato from Fatamorgana, with creative flavours like basil and tomato or chocolate and cardamom.
Hours: Monday-Saturday 7:00-15:30. Closed Sunday.
Mercato Trionfale: the largest
The largest covered market in Rome is near Castel Sant'Angelo. Over 270 stalls offer an incredible variety of produce: from fish freshly landed at Anzio to Lazio vegetables, from mountain cheeses to artisan cured meats. This is where the chefs of the city-centre restaurants come to shop.