The ritual of the Milanese aperitivo on the Navigli has become a global institution. Here is the history of the canals, the historic venues not to miss and the unusual philosophy of drinking with a buffet included.
Milan's Navigli: history, aperitivo and life on the canals
The Navigli are the beating heart of Milan by night: a system of man-made canals built from the 12th century for trade and irrigation, today lined with bars, art galleries and restaurants that come alive every evening.
A bit of history
The Naviglio Grande, the main one, was dug in 1177 and connected Milan to the Ticino river and Lake Maggiore. For centuries it allowed the transport of marble (the same used for the Duomo) and goods from Switzerland. Leonardo da Vinci himself took part in the design of some navigation locks.
After the war most of the canals were covered and filled in. Today the Naviglio Grande and the Naviglio Pavese survive; they ceased to be navigable in 1979 but became the heart of Milan's coolest district.
The aperitivo: a philosophy of life
The Milanese aperitivo is not a simple drink: between 6 and 9 pm, paying for one drink (10-15 euro), you get access to a buffet that may include pasta, rice, pizza, sandwiches, bruschetta and much more.
The formula was born in the 1980s as a trick by bars to attract custom at peak hours. Today it has become an institution exported around the world.
The historic venues:
- Mag Cafe (Ripa di Porta Ticinese): the most photographed of the Navigli, with counters over the canals
- Spritz Bar: aperitivo with a generous buffet
- El Brellin: the most historic, with old Naviglio cuisine
The antiques market
On the second-to-last Saturday of each month, the Navigli host Milan's largest antiques market: over 400 exhibitors sell period furniture, vintage jewellery, books and curiosities. It is one of the most popular events among Milanese.