Two markets a few steps apart tell two different souls of Florence: the open-air market of leather and souvenirs and the Liberty-style hall of artisan food.
The gastronomic heart of Florence: San Lorenzo and the Mercato Centrale
In the San Lorenzo district, a few steps from the Basilica and the Medici Mausoleum, beats the commercial and gastronomic heart of Florence.
The San Lorenzo Market (open-air)
The stalls of the open-air San Lorenzo market stretch for over a kilometre among leather goods, knitwear, leather bags, clothing and souvenirs. It is the largest market in Tuscany by area.
Here you find Florentine leather bags at far lower prices than the city-centre boutiques: a real leather wallet costs 15-30 euro, a good-quality bag 50-120 euro. Haggling is not as explicit as in Eastern markets, but a smile and the phrase "is there a discount?" never hurts.
Note: Not everything sold as "Florentine leather" is made in Tuscany. Look for the "Vera Pelle Italiana" mark or ask about the origin.
The Mercato Centrale: the temple of food
The Liberty-style hall of the Mercato Centrale (1874, Mazzoni) is one of the most beautiful food markets in Italy. On the ground floor, from 7am to 2pm, you find the best food shops in Florence: Chianina butchers, fishmongers, greengrocers and cheesemongers who supply the city's starred restaurants.
On the first floor (open until midnight) a modern food court has been created: 15 themed "islands" offer lampredotto, Chianina steaks, fresh pasta, Neapolitan pizza, Podolica-breed burgers and much more.
To try: The Lampredotto at the ground-floor stall (3-4 euro) is the most authentic way to eat like a true Florentine.