Secret Venice: canals, districts and islands
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La Serenissima is a city without equal in the world: 118 islands connected by 400 bridges, with no cars, where gondolas and vaporetti sail among Gothic and Renaissance palaces. The Carnival, the Biennale and a unique lagoon cuisine complete the picture.
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April-May and September-October. Avoid August for the heat and the frequent high water in November. The Carnival (February) is spectacular but overcrowded.
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From the mainland by train (Venezia Santa Lucia) or by car (parking at Piazzale Roma or Tronchetto). Marco Polo airport (VCE) 13 km away with vaporetto (7-15 euro) or water taxi (110-130 euro).
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On foot is the best way. Vaporetto (ACTV) for the islands and the Grand Canal. Gondola for a romantic experience (80 euro for 30 min, up to 6 people).
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St Mark's Square and Basilica
The most beautiful square in the world with the Golden Basilica (9th century), the Bell Tower and the Doge's Palace.
Grand Canal and Rialto Bridge
The main canal of Venice (4 km) with over 200 Gothic palaces and the Rialto Bridge (1591).
Islands: Murano, Burano and Torcello
Murano for blown glass, Burano for colourful houses and lace, Torcello for the 11th-century Romanesque cathedral.
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Sarde in Saor (sardines marinated in onion, raisins and pine nuts), Baccala Mantecato (creamed cod on polenta), Risi e Bisi (rice and peas), Cicchetti (Venetian tapas), Baicoli (biscuits).
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Osteria alle Testiere: excellent seafood, book ahead. Da Arturo: steak and Venetian cuisine without fish - a pleasant anomaly. Bacaro Jazz: cicchetti and glasses of wine.
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Cannaregio: less touristy, with the oldest Jewish Ghetto in Europe. Dorsoduro: artsy, with the Gallerie dell'Accademia. Castello: the most authentic and lived-in district.
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Padua (25 min by train): Giotto's Scrovegni Chapel and the Abano spas. Verona (1h15 by train): the Arena and Romeo and Juliet. Treviso (30 min by train): the medieval centre and the Treviso radicchio.
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Avoid bottled water: the public fountains offer free drinking water. Respect the local bans (swimming in the canals fine 500 euro, sitting on church steps). Book accommodation well in advance in high season - prices are among the highest in Italy.