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Eternal Rome: the Colosseum, the Vatican and trattorias

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Rome, the Eternal City, is a metropolis where three thousand years of history live alongside vibrant modern life. Founded in 753 BC, Rome was the heart of the Roman Empire, the seat of the papacy and the cradle of Renaissance art. Today it holds the highest concentration of historical, artistic and gastronomic heritage in the world.

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Spring (April-June) and autumn (September-October) are ideal, with temperatures of 18-26 degrees C and smaller crowds. Summer is hot and muggy (35+ degrees C) but less frequented by Romans. Winter (December-February) offers lower prices and almost no queues at the museums.

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FLIGHTS: Fiumicino (FCO), the main airport, is 35 km from the centre. Leonardo Express every 15 min (35 min, 14 euro). Ciampino (CIA) for low-cost flights, 15 km from the centre, reachable by shuttle (40-60 min, 6-7 euro). TRAINS: Roma Termini is the main hub with high speed from Milan (3h), Florence (1h30), Naples (1h10). CAR: A1 motorway from the north (Milan/Florence) and the south (Naples). The GRA is the ring road around the city.

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METRO: 3 lines (A, B/B1, C). Line A for the main tourist sites (Spagna, Barberini, Repubblica). Line B for the Colosseum. Single ticket 1.50 euro (100 min). BUS: Extensive ATAC network, including night buses. TAXI: Fixed fares from the airport (Fiumicino 48-52 euro, Ciampino 30-36 euro). Apps: inTaxi, itTaxi. ON FOOT: The historic centre is great to explore on foot - the main attractions are within a 30-minute walk of each other.

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Colosseum

The largest amphitheatre of the ancient world (70-80 AD), holding 50,000-80,000 spectators. The scene of gladiators and public spectacles for centuries.

💡 guides.tipLabel Buy tickets online 2-3 weeks in advance in high season. The ticket includes the Roman Forum and Palatine. Visit at opening (9:00) or in the late afternoon. Consider the underground or arena floor tour.

Roman Forum and Palatine

The heart of the political and commercial life of ancient Rome. The Palatine, the most famous of the 7 hills, holds the remains of the imperial palaces with panoramic views.

💡 guides.tipLabel Included in the Colosseum ticket. Bring water and a hat in summer. The route takes 2-3 hours. Exit on the Palatine for stunning views.

Vatican and Sistine Chapel

The smallest state in the world: St Peter's Basilica, the Vatican Museums with Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel, the Pieta and Bernini's baldachin.

💡 guides.tipLabel Book the Vatican Museums online, mandatory in high season. Appropriate dress required. On Wednesdays you can attend the papal audience in St Peter's Square (free).

Trevi Fountain

The most famous fountain in the world (1762, Nicola Salvi), the end point of the Aqua Virgo. By tradition, tossing a coin guarantees your return to Rome.

💡 guides.tipLabel Visit at night or at dawn to avoid the crowds. The fountain is lit and especially striking after sunset.

Pantheon

The best-preserved Roman temple in the world (118-128 AD), with its open-oculus dome 43 m in diameter. The tomb of Raphael and of the kings of Italy.

💡 guides.tipLabel Paid entry (5 euro). Visit early in the morning, preferably Tuesday or Thursday. The rain falling through the oculus is a unique experience.

Piazza Navona

Built on the footprint of the Stadium of Domitian (1st century AD), it is one of the most beautiful baroque squares in Europe. At its centre is Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers (1651).

💡 guides.tipLabel The restaurants on the square are expensive and mediocre. Get a gelato and enjoy the atmosphere sitting down. In December it hosts a characteristic Christmas market.

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CACIO E PEPE: Pasta (tonnarelli or spaghetti) with pecorino romano and black pepper. Absolute simplicity, intense flavour. CARBONARA: Spaghetti with eggs, pecorino, guanciale and pepper - never cream! AMATRICIANA: Pasta with tomato, guanciale and pecorino. SUPPLI: Fried rice croquettes with ragu and stringy mozzarella, the quintessential Roman street food. CARCIOFI ALLA ROMANA: Artichokes with mint and garlic, typical of winter. PIZZA IN TEGLIA: Soft, by the slice, topped in a thousand ways.

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DA ENZO AL 29 (Trastevere): Historic trattoria, book ahead. ROSCIOLI SALUMERIA: Iconic deli-restaurant for cured meats and cheeses. SUPPLI ROMA: For the best suppli in the city (several locations). TONNARELLO (Trastevere): Famous cacio e pepe, fair prices. PIZZARIUM BONCI: The most famous pizza by the slice in Rome, chef Gabriele Bonci.

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TRASTEVERE: The most romantic, with cobbled lanes, typical trattorias and lively nightlife. HISTORIC CENTRE: In the heart of everything, expensive but very convenient. PRATI: Near the Vatican, quiet, mid-range prices. MONTI: A hipster district between the Roman Forum and Termini, with boutiques and taverns. TESTACCIO: An authentic district, the cradle of traditional Roman cuisine.

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TIVOLI (30 km): Hadrian's Villa and Villa d'Este with its fountain gardens. OSTIA ANTICA (25 km): The ruins of the port of imperial Rome. CASTELLI ROMANI: Lake Albano and Castel Gandolfo. NAPLES and POMPEII (2h30 by train): The most chaotic city in Italy and the excavations. ORVIETO (1h30 by train): A medieval city on tufa with a splendid cathedral.

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WATER: The nasoni (public cast-iron fountains) provide free drinking water. CLOTHING: Comfortable shoes for the uneven cobblestones. HOURS: Many shops close for lunch (13-16). Museums often close on Mondays. SAFETY: Beware of pickpockets in tourist areas and on buses. ROMA PASS: A card that includes transport and museums, worthwhile for 2+ days.