London on the Thames: museums, markets and skyline

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London is one of the most diverse and dynamic metropolises in the world: centuries of imperial history blend with a cutting-edge cultural scene, world-class free museums, West End theatres, very colourful markets and an ever-evolving cosmopolitan gastronomy.

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June-August offer the best temperatures (18-25 degrees C) but also the largest crowds and highest prices. May and September are good compromises. Winter is grey and rainy but offers magnificent Christmas events, low prices and museums without queues.

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FLIGHTS: Heathrow (LHR) 24 km away, connected by the Piccadilly Line (50 min, 6 euro) or Heathrow Express (15 min, 22-37 euro). Gatwick (LGW) with Gatwick Express (30 min). Stansted (STN) and Luton (LTN) for low-cost with bus/train. TRAINS: St Pancras for Eurostar from Paris (2h20) and Brussels. FERRIES: From Calais/Dunkirk via Dover.

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UNDERGROUND (Tube): 11 lines cover the whole city. Use an Oyster Card or contactless (never paper tickets - they cost double). DOUBLE-DECKER BUSES: Iconic double-deckers, same cost as the Tube with Oyster. TAXI: Black cabs (traditional black taxis) or Uber - the taxi is expensive but reliable. ON FOOT: Central London is walkable between Tower Bridge, Southbank, Westminster and Covent Garden.

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British Museum

One of the largest and most visited museums in the world: 8 million objects from prehistory to the present. The Rosetta Stone, the Parthenon Marbles, Egyptian mummies. Free entry.

πŸ’‘ guides.tipLabel Arrive at opening (10:00) to avoid the crowds. The museum is huge - choose which collections to prioritise. Temporary exhibitions are paid.

Tower of London and Tower Bridge

The Tower of London (11th century) is the most famous royal castle in the world: the Crown Jewels, the Beefeaters and a millennium of history. Tower Bridge (1894) is the city's most iconic bridge.

πŸ’‘ guides.tipLabel Buy tickets online for the Tower (discounts). Tower Bridge can be visited inside (walkway and glass floor). Combine the two visits in the same morning.

Buckingham Palace and St James's Park

The official residence of the British sovereign since 1837. The Changing of the Guard (11:30 on even days, free) is an unmissable spectacle of precision and ceremony.

πŸ’‘ guides.tipLabel The gardens are open to the public in August. St James's Park with its flamingos and pelicans is free and beautiful. Arrive 45 min early for a good spot at the Changing of the Guard.

Tate Modern

The most visited contemporary art museum in the world, in a converted power station on the bank of the Thames. Picasso, Warhol, Dali, Rothko. Free entry.

πŸ’‘ guides.tipLabel The 10th-floor terrace offers spectacular views over St Paul's and the Thames - free. Temporary exhibitions are paid.

London Markets

Borough Market (artisan food), Portobello Road (vintage and antiques on Saturday), Columbia Road (flowers on Sunday), Camden Market (alternative). Each has a different soul.

πŸ’‘ guides.tipLabel Borough Market opens Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Portobello Road is best early in the morning. Camden Market is open every day but the weekend is the best time.

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FISH AND CHIPS: The British classic - battered, fried cod with thick chips. FULL ENGLISH BREAKFAST: Eggs, bacon, sausages, beans, toast, tomatoes and mushrooms - the Sunday meal. SUNDAY ROAST: Roast with Yorkshire pudding, roasted vegetables and gravy. CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA: An Indian dish that became the British favourite. CORNISH PASTY: A pastry filled with meat and vegetables, typical street food.

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DISHOOM (Covent Garden): The best Indian food inspired by the cafes of Bombay - inevitable queue but worth it. MALTBY STREET MARKET: Quality street food at the weekend. THE FAT DUCK (Bray): Heston Blumenthal's 3 Michelin stars, book months ahead. HONEST BURGERS: London's most loved artisan burger chain. ST JOHN: British nose-to-tail cuisine, a gastronomic institution.

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SOUTH BANK: Along the Thames, with the Tate Modern, Shakespeare's Globe and trendy venues. SHOREDITCH: The quintessential street-art, start-up and hipster district. NOTTING HILL: Elegant, with colourful houses and Portobello Road. SOHO: Theatres, ethnic restaurants and nightlife. EAST END (Brick Lane): Bangladeshi curries and vintage markets.

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OXFORD (1h by train): The medieval universities and historic pubs. CAMBRIDGE (1h by train): King's College and the famous backs on the rivers. STONEHENGE and BATH (2-3h): The prehistoric site and the Roman city with its baths. WINDSOR (40 min): The oldest royal castle still in use. BRIGHTON (1h): The beach with colourful huts and the Royal Pavilion.

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OYSTER CARD: Essential for transport - top it up as soon as you arrive. TIPPING: 10-15% in restaurants is standard. WEATHER: Always bring a light raincoat. CONGESTION CHARGE: 15 pounds a day for cars in the centre - avoid driving. FREE MUSEUMS: British Museum, Tate Modern, National Gallery, Natural History Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum are all free.