Lisbon of the seven hills: trams, fado and miradouros
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Europe's westernmost capital wins you over with its seven hills, the yellow trams, the houses clad in azulejos, the melancholic fado and excellent seafood. Belem with its Tower and the Pasteis de Nata is unmissable.
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March-May and September-October. Summer is sunny (25-30 degrees C) but less hot than southern Spain.
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Humberto Delgado airport (LIS) 7 km away with metro (20 min, 1.75 euro) or taxi (15 euro). International trains from Madrid (9h15, but flying is convenient).
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Tram 28 (iconic but crowded), Metro (4 lines), Carris buses. Lisbon is hilly - some uphill routes require the public lifts/elevadors.
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Belem: Tower and Jeronimos Monastery
The Belem Tower (1519) and the Jeronimos Monastery (16th century) are masterpieces of Manueline Gothic, a UNESCO site.
Alfama and Fado
The oldest district of Lisbon, with the Castelo de Sao Jorge, the stone alleys and the houses where fado was born.
Mercado da Ribeira (Time Out Market)
The historic market (1892) converted into a food hub with the best chefs in Lisbon.
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Bacalhau (cod in 365 different recipes), Pasteis de Nata (custard tarts), Bifanas (marinated pork sandwich), Caldo Verde (cabbage soup), Francesinha (grilled sandwich typical of Porto).
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Cervejaria Ramiro: the best seafood in Lisbon. Tasca do Chico: authentic fado and home cooking. Solar dos Presuntos: classic Portuguese cuisine since 1976.
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Alfama: historic and romantic. Bairro Alto: nightlife and bars. LX Factory: a former factory with markets and restaurants. Chiado: elegant and cultural.
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Sintra (40 min by train): the romantic palaces in the forest. Cascais (40 min by train): the chic seaside town. Obidos (1h by bus): the medieval village with intact walls.
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Tram 28 is expensive and packed with tourists - prefer the 12E for the same route, more smoothly. The Pasteis de Belem (Rua de Belem) are the most famous but the queue is long. Lisbon is the European capital of surfing - Cascais and Peniche are within reach.